how to make recycled paper

I've recently been bitten by the paper recycling bug. My symptoms? Ogling over multi-colored paper scraps and a strong desire to never buy construction paper ever again.

Some of the mothers in my school make beautiful things with recycled paper, such as this journal which is hand-bound with string coated in beeswax. The edges of the cover are delicately burned for a real artisan touch. (You can find beeswax here, which you apply to a single strand of hemp string, working it in with the heat of your fingers. Bind the book by sewing the layers together with a large-eyed needle, then thread some beads on each end.)

The process of making recycled paper varies from one source to the next, which can only mean one thing - the process is the kind that is open to experimentation and variation. I encourage you to do just that. Children will love experimenting with different kinds of paper and procedures. This little tutorial illustrates what has worked for me thus far.

What you will need:

-Keep a bucket of water handy next to your recycling bins. Shred by hand any used paper (a perfect job for a toddler!) and throw it into the bucket to sit for at least a day.
-An old blender
-Used frames (minus the glass and backing) of various sizes. The size of the frame will determine the size of your finished sheet of paper.
-Very, very fine plastic screening which will be stretched over the frames and used as a sieve
-Thumb tacks for attaching the screening to the frames to make the sieve
-A tupperware bin large enough to so that you can easily submerge the frames in it
-Newspaper cut slightly larger than the dimensions of your frames for blotting
-Absorbent sponge
-Rolling pin

1.) With a ratio of about 1 portion of well-soaked paper scraps to 2 cups water, blend into a pulp in your old, trusty blender. Blend in short spurts so as not to burn out the motor. You will need about two half-blender-fulls (shown above) of pulp per tupperware bin batch. *If you would like to make your paper scented, add 6-10 drops of essential oils during the blending of the pulp.

2.) Fill the tupperware bin with several inches of water and pour in the pulp. Swish the mixture around so that the pulp is evenly distributed in the water. *You can add dried flowers, leaves, etc. at this point in the process, or you can wait until you have lifted the sieve out of the water and press them neatly onto the paper.

3.) Submerge the frame-sieve into the bin and slowly lift out. Place a piece of blotting newspaper on top of the pulp/paper. Using a sponge on top of the newspaper, blot away all of the excess water. Flip over the sieve and carefully remove the paper. It should still be attached to the newspaper on one side.

4.) Place another piece of newspaper on top of the paper. The paper sheet is now sandwiched between two layers of newspaper. Roll out any excess water using a rolling pin. Remove the top piece of newspaper and let the paper dry completely in a sunny spot. Carefully peel the recycled sheet from the newspaper.

Here's a video that demonstrates a slightly different way to go about it. Figure out what process works best for you. Before you know it, you'll be planning to write down all of your recipes on recycled paper, too!

once upon a time there was a little boy who loved play-doh

But his teacher thought he was too little to make it himself on the stove ...

So she put together a special, no-cook play-doh making exercise just for him.

The little boy has never been happier! Every day at school he makes a batch of play-doh to share with the rest of the children on the art shelf and a special green batch to take home.

4 tablespoons of white flour
2 tablespoons of salt
1 dropper-full of vegetable oil
2 tablespoons of water

Add the dry ingredients in a bowl. If you want to add a few drops of food coloring, make sure to add it to the water, otherwise it will be difficult to get a uniform color. Little by little, add the water. At first, stir with a spoon - once all of the water is added, start smooshing the mixture with your hands until it reaches the desired consistency. Store in an air-tight container in the fridge when not in use. Most likely, it will end up drying out after a day or two of heavy use.

Psst ... want to see more recent pics of classroom happenings? I just posted a bunch over at Flickr .

xo,
Meg

recycled bath mat tutorial

I extend the warmest of welcomes to everyone participating in Sew, Mama, Sew's beyond brilliant November Handmade Holidays series! With no further ado, I present to you:

The Recycled Bath Mat Tutorial
For those looking to add a little color to their family's shower experience

1. Dive into your scrap bag.
Using a card stock 2 1/2 inch square template and tailor's chalk or other water-soluble quilter's pen, trace around your template onto your scrap fabric. Cut out the square. Repeat this 87 times (you will need 88 squares, total.) Be sure to cut out a variety of complimentary fabrics. While making my mat, I stuck with reds, aquas, greens and yellows.

2. Arrange your patches
First thing's first - clean your floor and ban all fabric-loving felines from entering. You'll need to spread out your patches, 11 across by 8 down, and you wouldn't want your work disturbed once you've found the perfect layout! Once you're satisfied, begin stacking, in order, the top row of 11 patches. Leave the other rows in their place on the floor, and take this "first row stack" over to your sewing machine.

3. Sew together the patchwork strips.

Using a 1/4 in seam allowance, sew the 11 squares together. Press the seams to one side. Return this first strip to your floor layout. Now stack the second row, sew the strip, press, and return. Repeat for the remaining strips.

4. Sew the strips together

Starting with the top two strips, place the first strip with the right side facing up, then lay the second strip on top of it with its right side facing down. Secure the right, long edge with pins. With a 1/4 in seam allowance, stitch down this long edge and press the seam to one side. Repeat this process with the rest of the strips, always placing the "loose" strip face down on top of the previous strip and sewing along the right, unfinished edge.

5. Embellish the top of the mat
While it is fine to leave the top of the mat embroidery-free, I couldn't help but break out the old-fashioned needle and thread. Here's how I managed the feet outline:

I used my own tiny feet as the model, but it would be great to use a child's footsies, or, better yet, the whole family's! Make sure the top of the mat is pressed flat, then trace around the feet using tailor's chalk.

I used the chain stitch with 6 strands of white embroidery floss because I wanted the outline to stand out from the background colors. With three strands of floss, I embroidered "clean feet" using a no-nonsense running stitch.

6. Cut out an old terry towel for the mat backing
Cut out part of an old towel to the same dimensions as your mat front.

Pin the mat front, right side facing down, to the towel backing.

7. Sew the mat front to the towel backing
Using a 1/4 seam allowance, sew around the edges, leaving a 4 inch gap for turning. Turn the mat right side out and press. Topstitch along the entire edge, closing the "turning gap" as you go.

8. "Quilt" around your embroidery

Lengthen your stitch length slightly and machine stitch around the outside of your "feet." This serves the dual purpose of accenting the embroidery as well as securing the towel backing to the mat front, to prevent slippage.

That's it! I hope that you or your gift recipient enjoys this light-hearted addition to the bathroom!

xo,
Meg

pocket/stuff sack tutorial

Once again, fat cat was cajoled into this whole baby carrier photo shoot thing ... this time with a heavenly chin scratch. Little cat would have nothing to do with it.

The Heather Ross fabric was looking at me while batting its Russian doll eyelashes, so I made another mei tai for this tutorial. However, you can add this kind of a pocket/stuff sack onto just about anything, from your already-made mei tai carriers to picnic blankets and outerwear - anything that you want to make portable and easily stowed away in a purse. Thanks to Katharine for the inspiration - check out the link to see her version of the mei tai pocket/stuff sack.

While Katharine used a zippered pocket, the one in this tutorial is zipper-free and really easy to add on to your mei tai. It shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes max.

1.) Cut out two rectangles of fabric 11 in. x 15 in. Place them with their right sides facing together (if you have a directional print like my fabric, place one "upside down.")

2.) Sew around all edges, leaving an opening on one of the 11 inch sides for turning. Turn right side out and press. Now fold the top 5 inches and pin. Flip over the entire pocket and pin in place on the carrier. (The folded part will be sandwiched between the pocket and the carrier, and not visible until it turns into the stuff sack.)

3.) Topstitch around the three edges of the pocket. In doing so, you will close the opening at the bottom that you left for turning. Be sure to reinforce these seams, especially towards the top edges of the pocket.

*Notice here that I made another variation to the original pattern with this Russian doll mei tai ... I removed the nursing shield in favor of a more rectangular look, while still maintaining a slight curve and headrest at the top. That's the great thing about this pattern - once you get the general idea, you can modify it to fit your needs! (My need this time being making the mei tai body out of a measly half-yard of this precious fabric!)

Here's how to covert the pocket into a stuff sack:

Turn the pocket inside out.

Stuff.

Flip over the top.

Place in your purse or use as a mini pillow!

make your own hand lotion

I'm a compulsive ingredients label reader. Mumblings of "Eew! Who would put that on their body!" and "Oh, that can't be good for you," seem to escape from my mouth when shopping for food and toiletries.

Several years ago I happened upon this book which has numerous recipes for making your own personal care products. We've gotten a lot of use out of it - and have had a blast emulsifying water and oil, coming up with custom essential oil fragrance combinations, and packaging up the yummy products for gifts and our own use. Here's to handmade - for your hands.

Ingredients
6 oz. liquid oil (such as canola or olive oil)
3 oz. solid oil (coconut oil, shea butter, etc.)
1 oz. beeswax (find it here, along with other organic products)
9 oz. of water
20 drops of orange essential oil
30 drops of vanilla essential oil

Pour the 6 oz. of liquid oil into a 16 oz. heat-proof measuring cup. Add pieces of solid oil to the liquid oil until the total volume reaches the 9 oz. mark, then add the 1 oz. of beeswax. Put the measuring cup into a pot filled with water and place it over medium heat on the stove top. Stir until the all of the solids melt. This can take a little while.

Remove the measuring cup from the water and let it cool to body temperature. It will become more thick and opaque - keep stirring it as it cools. Briefly place the 9 oz. of water in its own container into the pot (still filled with hot water) to bring it up to body temperature.

Pour the 9 oz. of water into a larger mixing bowl. Get out your hand mixer and turn it on high speed. Slowly begin pouring the oil mixture into the water. Continue processing until the mixture reaches a thick, creamy consistency. Turn off the mixer and add the drops of essential oil, then mix it up a bit more.

Try not to eat it, okay? I know it smells good, but it's for your hands. :)

P.S. - for you Montessorians out there ... wouldn't this be a great practical life activity for older elementary children?

tutorial - pleated pocket front door organizer

-- a place for the purse-less (a.k.a. MEN) to put their keys and wallet when they walk in the door
-- a place for incoming and outgoing mail
-- a place for extra change
-- a place for the random stuff that would otherwise end up on the kitchen table!!

Materials:

- 2 26 x 45 cm rectangles of fabric A for main panels
- 1 26 x 45 cm rectangle of heavyweight sew-in interfacing
- 1 21 x 28 cm rectangle of fabric B for the larger pocket*
- 1 16 x 28 cm rectangle of fabric B for the smaller pocket
- 1 9 x 10 cm rectangle of fabric A for the key pocket
- 1.21 meters of bias tape (this should be made from a contrasting fabric C. This will need to be cut into 4 strips of 28 cm each, and one strip of 9 cm.**
- rick-rack or other trimmings if you desire
-two extra-large grommets and accompanying hardware

*If your fabric is not very heavy, you might consider using a fusible interfacing to back the larger and smaller pockets.

*Make your own bias tape! In fact, this tape doesn't need to be cut on the bias, because it will not be rounding any corners. It's easy - cut cut a 1.25 meter strip of fabric, 8 cm in width. Fold over both long edges toward the center and press. Fold in half and press.1.) Baste the heavyweight interfacing to the back main panel using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

2.) Attach bias tape to the top edge of all 3 pockets, topstitching and catching all layers in the seam. At this time you can sew on rick-rack or other trimmings to the edges.
3.) Fold over the side edges of the key pocket 1/4 inch and press. Make a pleat in the bottom edge and pin, right sides together, facing down on the large pocket. Stitch strait across edge using a 1/4 in. seam allowance. Trim excess. Pin so that the pocket is not laying flat, and topstitch sides very close to the edges.4.) Measure 22 cm up on the front large panel. Place small pocket right side down, facing down. Pin edges so they are flush with the front panel edges. Now, with the "extra" fabric, made an inverted pleat in the middle and pin. Stitch along the pleat edge with a 1/2 in. seam allowance. Unpin the top edges, fold up pocket, and press, and pin edges once again. Baste the edges to the front of the panel.

5.) Pin the large pocket to the front panel, right side up, lining up the sides and bottom edge. Pin the sides first, then make an inverted pleat with the extra fabric at the center. Baste all three sides in place.

6.) Pin just the long sides of the front panel to the back panel, right sides facing. Stitch using 3/8 in. seam allowance. Trim, turn, and press.

7.) Center the remaining pieces of bias tape along the unfinished edges and pin in place. Fold the edges toward the back, like you're wrapping a present. Sew along the edge, catching all layers in the seam.

8.) About 1 inch in from the top sides, on the bias tape strip, install the grommets using the manufacturer's instructions.

9.) Hang on some hooks by your front door and enjoy!

xo,
Meg

The Luxurious Life of a Tea Towel

Some tea towels lead an unenviable life. Be it bad karma or simply un-spiffed-up-blandness, most tea towels eventually go by way of the rag pile, sopping up spilled wine and other snafus. Some, on the other hand, enjoy life in the lime light, and will never stoop so low as to clean a spill. This is the fate of this little lovely: My mom found it for me, and bought me two, knowing very well that they would be treated like royalty, and not tea towels. Today I made one into a half apron, for use at home, in the classroom, and for photo shoots. :)

It was already embroidered with the pots, flowers, and dragonfly motif. I added orange rick-rack at the bottom edge, cut off a bit of the length, and added the waist band and ties. Here's a quick look at how I did it.For the ties, cut four rectangles, 1 yd x 2.5 inches. Two of one fabric, two of another. Leaving one edge open for turning, stitch along the outside with right sides together, using a 3/8 in. seam allowance. Clip edges and turn. Press.
Decide how long you want your tea towel apron to be. Then cut a piece of fabric slightly longer than the width of the towel. The width of this waistband fabric also depends on your taste. Mine was about 2 1/4 in wide. With wrong side of waistband facing right side of tea towel, pin upper edge in place. Stitch a seam along this upper edge. Flip up waistband and press.

Cut the tea towel, leaving about 5/8 in of space between the top of the waistband and the top of the tea towel. Fold waistband over 1/4 in and press. Fold over top of towel and press. Pin in place and topstitch all layers together. Then topstitch along the bottom of the waistband. Wait for the approval of the King of Everything. If The Cat Almighty gives his nod, move on to the next step.
Fold under the sides of the waistband and press. Make a ridiculously cute little pleat as you attach the ties to the waistband. Pin and stitch in place.
Flaunt your new uber-cuteness, and frolic in the frivolity of it all!

xo,
Meg

Memory Game of Numbers

Tiny envelopes with snap closures really liven up the Memory Game of Numbers. You will need about 1/4 yard of the main fabric for the pouch (here in green plaid,) but the rest you can salvage from your scraps. Just make sure you have enough scrap fabric to make all 11 envelopes, which need to be identical.

Large Storage Pouch
1.) Cut out two piece of your main fabric to about 24 x 38 cm. Add a triangular end if you like. If your fabric is lightweight like mine was, you should cut and iron on interfacing to the wrong sides of each main piece. With right sides together, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew together the two pieces, leaving a gap of several inches where you will turn the piece.

2.) Trim corners and allowances, turn, and press.
3.) Fold the bottom up and decide how deep you want your envelope to be. Pin in place and sew close to the edge, closing the opening in the process. Add a store-bought bias binding or make your own like I did. Starting at the bottom of the envelope, attach the binding. Check out this tutorial if you aren't sure how to go about this. I used a ladder stitch to attach the binding to the "wrong side." Tiny Envelopes
4.) Now make 11 little envelopes. Cut out a "arrow shaped" pattern with card stock. The rectangular base will be about 6cm x 9cm. The pointy part of the triangle will extend about 3 cm more, for a total length of about 12cm. Cut out 22 arrows. Pin them right sides together and stitch around using a 1/2 in. seam allowance - leave a small opening to turn, preferably on the upper side of the main rectangle. 5.) Turn and press. Fold up bottom half and pin. Topstitch (very close to the edge!) around the entire envelope, catching the open seam as you sew. Sew on the two snap pieces by hand, hiding the stitches between the two layers of fabric.
6.) Write out the numbers 0 through 10 on card stock. Laminate, cut, and insert them into their pockets.

C'est tout! Actually, this is a bit of a project, so be forewarned! You must REALLY LIKE small envelopes if you are to ward off insanity. :)

Oh ... the Saturday Song took a sabbatical. I was too into my envelopes. Back next week!

Spindle Box Ties

I've caught the math bug. Ever since attending AMI's refresher course last February in San Francisco, the math curriculum has seemed more inviting and more intriguing. Thanks to Monte Kenison, who lectured extensively on the subject, I feel motivated to make the math curriculum my own - delve into the theory, answer the "whys" that reverberate in my literature-loving brain, and get excited about what it has to offer. Of course, for me "getting excited" implies "making nifty materials." So here's what to expect in the next month or so:

• A summary of all the math presentations in the Children's House, along with each exercise and game. This will be, in essence, an AMI guide's math curriculum cheat sheet. Don't we all need a reminder of all of the possible exercises for any given math material? I certainly do. Along with this will come a math record that you can print off for each child that will follow her through her three year adventure in the Children's House math area.
  

• A series of tutorials and ideas for embellishing the math shelves. I will endeavor to put together a large chunk of my math curriculum with minimal cost and maximum creative output.

Without further ado, I present to you the Spindle Box ties!

1.) Cut 8 fabric scraps to 2 inches x 12.5 inches. Use different scraps for each tie, or make them monochromatic.

2.) Fold the tie in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew along one top short end, pivot, and continue to sew down the length of the tie. Backstitch 1/2 inch from the edge of fabric.

3.) Trim the corners and the seam allowance to 1/4 inch. Using a blunt-tipped pencil or other small turning tool, turn tube so the right side of fabric is facing out. Press, folding under open seam.
4.) Topstitch around all edges, closing the open seam as you stitch. That's all there is to it! It only takes about an hour to finish all 8 ties.

Happy weekend,
Meg

Number cards and counters - control of error

Ever notice that there is no built-in control of error for the Number Cards and Counters material? Well, golly gosh, that sounds like an excuse to use some fabric scraps and whip up something fun and funky for the benefit of my pupils! Here's a quick tutorial for y'all.

1.) Photo copy your sandpaper numbers, 0-9.
2.) Cut out each number.

3.) Pick out ten different fabric scraps. You will only need a little patch of each. Lay them out next to each other and fiddle around with the placement - color contrast and print selection are important.
4.) With your iron, apply fusible webbing, paper side up, to the WRONG side of the fabric. Place the copy of the number on the paper side of the webbing, BACKWARDS. Trace around the number with any pen. Cut out the fabric number and peel off the paper backing.5.) Continue making all the numbers, from 1 to 10. (You will not make a separate zero because it's not used in the exercise.) Arrange them on a piece of muslin or other backing fabric. Iron, following the manufacturer's instructions for the fusible webbing. Your number strip will look something like this:
Feel free to leave the project as is and mount it on some cardboard backing, or find a frame. I chose to embroider the edges around each number in order to provide contrast and texture, and to ensure a strong adhesion of the numbers to the background fabric.

UPDATE: Here's a link to a tutorial for the stem stitch, which I used to embroider the edges of my numbers.

Yay for artsy math! Now you have a work of art to hang near the math shelf, and the children have a way to check their own work!

On being role models ....

Okay, so this may not be entirely Montessori related, but it most certainly has to do with the example we, as teachers/mothers/administrators send to the children in our care and to the community at-large. U-handblog has posted a fab tutorial on how to make an eco-friendly, fabric grocery bag. (Click on pictures to enlarge.)Let's all make them for ourselves, our families, and our friends. Down with the ridiculous plastic (or paper) bag!!! What a waste - here in the supermarkets they tend to double bag things. And where do these bags end up? Not in a landfill because we don't have one, not recycled, not made into interesting eco-art ... well, right now I see that one is stuck in the tree in front of my house. Arrgh. Thank you, wind.

Plus, how cool is the small pouch that it fits into? With this pouch, you can toss the grocery bag into your purse, and you will never have to be without it! No excuses!

Here's another idea I found while perusing the crafty blogosphere, for all of the Assistants to Infancy Montessorians and moms/dads with newborns:Laura provides a quick tutorial on how to remake a newborn shirt and add this binding. She talks about dyeing the old, stained baby shirts, but I'm not too sure I would use dye for the newborn. I might consider organic dyes. Laura said she found these fold-over shirts at Target. They seem like a good idea to me ... why traumatize baby by forcing a shirt over his head and arms when you could provide a kimono-type shirt? I would think that these fold over shirts could be slightly altered so that the fold-over is in the back, closed with velcro, so that when the baby is on his back for changing you can easily get his arms out of the shirt without having to lift him up. However, this is not my area of expertise. I'm not yet a mom, and I work with 3-6 year olds. Any old pro's out there - moms, A to I trained Montessorians, etc. who might be able to offer some practical advice on newborn clothing?

By the way, my cat Amelie is getting much better. She's back to bossing me around and whining for cheese. Perhaps I should have thought of her post-spay recovery time as a bit of a personal respite! But it's good to have her back to normal.

Child's Smock Tutorial

As promised, a tutorial on the orange juicing / making limeade smock. But before I begin, have you signed up for our first Montessori swap? It should be a lot of fun!

This smock will be used by the older children only, so keep this sizing in mind if you want to make the smock for a child younger than 5 years old. You'll need to shorten the elastic band, shoulder straps, and overall length of the main skirt to fit a younger child.


The smock is pulled on over the head and requires no fasteners. The buttons are simply decorative.

Materials:
1 yard/meter of fabric
22 inches of 1/2 inch elastic
coordinating thread
2 large, coordinating buttons
yard/meter stick and fabric marker

1.) Using your yard/meter stick and fabric marker to cut the fabric to the following dimensions:

1.) With right sides together, sew together the main skirt panels leaving a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Leave an opening on one of the 48 cm sides to turn.

2.) Turn main skirt panels and iron, folding opening under 1/2 inch. Topstitch around three sides of the skirt, leaving one 45 cm side without topstitching. This will be the top - the part you will attach to the chest band.
3.) With a single strand of thread and a hand needle, hand stitch loosely along the top edge of the skirt. Do not knot the thread at either end. Pull gently on both ends of thread to gather.


4.) At this time, make the elastic band casing. To make the casing, simple fold the strip in half (long sides together) with right sides together and stitch down the long side with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Turn and press. Topstitch along both long edges. Insert elastic using a safety pin. Secure elastic at one end by stitching over elastic (in casing) several times. When the other end of the elastic appears at the other edge of casing, remove safety pin, continue pulling on elastic with fingers and sew back and forth several times to secure within casing. Set aside.

5.) Make the shoulder straps. Fold strip in half lenthwise, stitch a 1/2 inch seam down the long side. Turn and press. Topstitch along both long edges. Repeat for other strap. Set aside.

6.) With each chest band, fold over the long edges 1/4 inch and press.


7.) Attach the top of the gathered skirt to the back chest band (you choose which one is the back - it doesn't matter.) The total length of the gathered skirt top should be 12 inches or 30 cm. Center the skirt in the chest band and pin. Using a longer stitch length, carefully sew the skirt to the chest band, making sure to catch the 1/4 folded edge of the chest band in the seam.

8.) Attach the shoulder straps to the back chest band. Pin them to the chest band, about 5 1/4 inches or 13 cm apart in the center, and 1/2 inch from each edge of the back chest band. About one inch of each shoulder strap edge will be caught in the seam. Click on picture for a larger image. Make sure the straps are not twisted before you sew. They should look like these:

9.) Attach front chest band. Carefully pin the front chest band to the back chest band, wrong sides together. Topstitch down both long edges.

10.) Attach elastic band. Fold under short edges of shoulder straps and press. Pin the elastic band in place. Stitch in place, backstitching several times to reinforce the seam. Repeat to attach the other side.
11.) Hand stitch buttons to the front of the chest band directly underneath the shoulder straps.

How to make a lined, drawstring bag

Thanks to Karla Norgaard for submitting this tutorial! Questions? Email Karla at knorgy(at)earthlink.net. To submit an idea/tutorial, email instructions and photos to montessorirevolution(at)gmail.com



This bag can be used for many different applications in the
classroom. This one is for a mystery bag. I also made a set of 4
smaller bags to hold fraction operations.

1. First decide what size you want your bag to be. I am making a
mystery bag for toddlers. My measurements are 9" wide by 9" tall. I
will also make a 3/4" casing for the drawstring and I will add 1 1/2"
above the drawstring for a gathered top. The total measurements for
my finished bag will be 9" x 11 1/4". (See diagram under "patterns" at the Yahoo group.)

2. Now we need to find the measurement for the raw fabric pieces. Add
1" to your width for seam allowances (10"). Double the height, then
add 1" for seam allowances (23 1/2"). My raw fabric will measure 10"
x 23 1/2".

3. Iron your fabric. Measure and mark the wrong side of the fabric
with a chalk pencil and ruler. Cut 2 pieces of fabric to your size.

4. Place your fabric with right sides together on a table or hard
surface. Measure 9 1/2" from a short end of the bag toward the
center. Mark fabric near the edge of the fabric. Repeat for the other
sides, for a total of 4 marks. (Note that 9 1/2" is the measurement
for my bag. You will mark your bag at 1/2" more than the height of
your bag.)

5. From each of the 4 marks you just made, measure and mark another
3/4" toward the center of the fabric. There will be a total of eight
marks. You will not be sewing in between these marks. I like to mark
with a pencil in between these marks to remind me not to sew in these
parts.

6. In the center of one of the short ends, mark a 4" space which you
will leave open for turning the bag right side out.

7. Pin all around the fabric.

8. Sew 1/2" seam all around except between the sets of marks. Make
sure to backstitch before and after each opening. There will be a
total of five spaces where you will not sew.

9. Trim the threads at each of the five openings. Clip the corners.

10. With the bag flat on an ironing board, turn the top flap of each
seam allowance toward the center of the bag and press. After all four
sides are pressed, flip the bag over and repeat.

11. Use the 4" opening to turn the bag right side out. Use a closed
pair of scissors to gently turn the corners.

12. Topstitch close to the edge of the side with the 4" opening.

13. Turn the topstitched seam into the bag until it reaches the
bottom of the bag.
14. Make sure the drawstring holes in the side seams line up. Pin in
place.
15. Stitch around the circumference of the bag from the top of one of
the drawstring openings to the other to create the drawstring casing.
Stitch back and forth several times at each opening to reinforce the
seam. Repeat for the bottom of the casing.


16. Cut 2 lengths of ribbon, each about 3 1/2 times the width of your
bag. Approximately 32" for my bag.

17. Attach a safety pin to the end of one ribbon and thread it
through both sides of the casing. Repeat for the second ribbon, this
time start threading from the opposite side of the bag. You will be
left with two lengths of ribbon hanging out of each side of the bag.

18. Burn the ends of the ribbon to prevent fraying. Tie the ribbons
together. If your ribbon is thin enough (or your beads are big
enough) you can add a bead to each end before tying the ribbons
together.

19. Pull on both ribbons at once to close the bag.

Instruments of the Orchestra!!!

I've been wanting to design this material for quite some time, and it's finally done! It took me a while to find the components I needed to make an audio/visual exercise where the children matched an audio clip of the instrument to a photo of that instrument. You can download this material by clicking on the "View My Files" box.net button in the side bar. I will also be sharing a tutorial on how to make the CD/card book shown below:



The catalyst in this endeavor was ordering the following CD from Montessori Services. "Peter Ustinov reads The Orchestra" provided me with clips of each instrument organized by instrument families: strings, woodwinds, brass, percussion, and special instruments. Previously I had contacted various symphony orchestras to ask if they could provide the clips that I needed, but to no avail.

I highly encourage you to order the entire CD, and if you are a parent, to get the book that accompanies it. For those of you who can't afford it or live outside the United States, I have uploaded to Box.net (see sidebar) the five excerpts you will need for this exercise. Please download these only if you really can't afford the CD.

Once you have the CD, burn copies of each "song," from numbers 5-9, on a separate CD. Does this make sense? For example, you will have "The String Family" on one CD, "The Brass Family" on another, etc.

Also, print off the Word file available at Box.net that contains the accompanying 3-part cards of photos of the instruments. Both the aforementioned files are in the folder "Instruments of the Orchestra." I suggest printing the cards on hefty cardstock. For this particular audio/visual exercise, you will need the cards without labels. (The control cards and labels are also included in the file. To store them, I'm planning on making the modified card duvet with the same instrument fabric.) On the back of each picture card, you will need to write the instrument family to which it belongs, and the number of the order in which it is heard on the CD. This serves as the control of error. For example, the clarinet card would have on the back:

The Woodwind Family - 5

When the child finishes, she can turn over the picture cards and check if the numbers are in order. The family name is important because the children can do a sorting exercise with the cards as well. Write up labels for each of the families. The child places the labels on the top of a rug and mixes up all the photo cards, sorting them into their families under the labels. The family name is the control of error for this exercise.

Here's how to make the CD book. I used a "fat quarter" of instrument fabric I ordered a while back at Craft Connection and 3/4 yard of golden silk dupion. (Elegant!) Unfortunately, the golden silk doesn't photograph well on the clunker of a camera, but what does?

Cut one outer fabric (the instruments) and one liner fabric to 43cm x 35cm. Then cut 5 strips of the liner fabric to 9cm x 35 cm.

On each of the strips, fold a long edge 1/4 in toward the wrong side of the fabric and press. Fold over once more (1/4 in) and press. On 4 strips, fold over the opposite long edge 1/4 in and press toward the wrong side. The one strip that is left without a fold is the bottom strip, which will be caught within the seam and finished when you attach the liner to the outer fabric.

Stitch each strip along the double folded edge. Press each strip after stitching.

Arrange the five strips, stitched side up, on the large piece of liner fabric. Check to see that five CDs and the cards fit.
Pin the top strip about 9cm down from the top. Sew along three sides, leaving the finished seam unattached. Make sure you catch the 1/4 in fold on the bottom in your stitching. This leaves a nice finished edge on the bottom that won't unravel. Press. Attach the next strip in the same manner, pressing after each strip.
With right sides facing, pin inner pocket lining to outer fabric. Using a 1/2 in seam, stitch pieces together. At the top of the book, machine baste the seam. This will eventually be ripped open for turning.
Trim corners and edges and press open the top, machine-basted area. Use a seam ripper to open. Turn the whole thing inside out and press once again.

Fold in half with the pockets facing out. Using pins, mark the center of the book. Starting from the bottom, stitch a seam to the top, using the pins as guides. Be sure that the open, pressed edge is folded toward the inside, and caught in this middle seam.

Cut 2 pieces of cardboard for a snug fit. Insert, and hand stitch closed.


That's it! It's pretty simple to make. I will put some cute music note closures on it when my husband gets back from the US with all of the goodies I ordered from Reprodepot and Craft Connection. You could put a snap closure on this or a bow closure - whatever floats your boat.

Hope you enjoy!

Meg

Moleskine Cover Tutorial

Vacation! Sew what, you say? Oh, how corny. But I do plan on sewing up some new projects and finishing off a few that are on the knitting and embroidery needles during this 2 week break. Here's today's completed project, a Moleskine journal cover.

I found this tutorial from Keyka Lou, who happens to sell these at her Etsy shop, for those of you who aren't so keen on crafting.


I use my moleskine as a repository for ideas for the classroom and material making/crafting. You might consider using one for your observations in the classroom. It would also make a snazzy gift.

I've been fiddling around with a new design for the world music curriculum CD's. I might come out of this process with less hair, but I'm determined to also come out of it with a stellar CD pocket. Thus far, I have tackled one of the difficulties - how to appliqué silk dupion cut-outs of each continent onto the front pocket fabric. For this, I must heap all gratitude at the feet of two fellow bloggers - Anna Maria and Liesl, who posted tutorials on the process. I ended up using a mix of the two methods because I can't get my hands on the freezer paper Liesl uses in her process. More about this later, when I have a fully presentable CD pocket tutorial for y'all. I'll have plenty of time to work on it, as Patrick left today for his grandmother's funeral in Florida.

I miss him (sigh) and I miss what he took with him so he can continue to work while away from the desktop (sigh.) Actually, I get along just fine on this Goliath of a computer, but I just realized that my photos of the cute eggshell decorations are en route to Florida on my laptop! I have a green kitty egg to share, made by Carlos. It will have to wait.

Hey, have you noticed the new happenings in my sidebar? I'm up on Flickr, but it will take me a little while to organize the photos. Also, I've added an "Inspirational Blogs" section. If you are at all interested in tapping into this creative community, check out my recommendations. These bloggers might not be Montessorians, but they are artists who write about their creative processes, share inspiration and tips, and encourage one another in their creative endeavors. My current favorite is Anna Maria Horner - her style is so exuberant and colorful, and her writing is welcoming in a "have a cup of tea, put your feet up and chat with me" kind of way.

I hope you are all enjoying the blossoms and the weather mood swings of early spring. While it snowed a mere week ago here in mountainous Mexico, tomorrow I will be planting our onions. Go figure.

Peace,
Meg

Zakka Pouch = Geometric Solids Storage

Karla just posted a great tutorial on how to make a mystery bag out of a basket base. It just so happened that one of my favorite crafting blogs, www.whipup.net, posted a link to another tutorial for a similar item: the Zakka Pouch at Black Dog Designs. Black Dog posts instructions on how to make a pouch with a knitted base as well as with a basket.
This photo really caught my attention - wouldn't an oblong basket zakka pouch work wonders for the storage of the geometric solids? Especially with a really cool geometric fabric. Plus, you wouldn't need an extra scarf to play the "put-your-hand-in-and-tell-me-what-geometric-solid-you-feel" game, for lack of a better name.

So what is zakka? It's not the first time I've heard the term on the crafting blog circuit, so I checked it out on Wikipedia. Here's what they say:

"Zakka (from the Japanese 'zak-ka' or 'many things') is a fashion and design phenomenon that has spread from Japan throughout Asia. The term refers to everything and anything that improves your home, life and outlook."

I understand that zakka are small, useful items - the little details that make life easier and more interesting. Hmm ... seems to me like Montessori classrooms should be filled with zakka!

Anyway, check out Karla's tutorial and this zakka tutorial. You don't even need a sewing machine, and the crafty skill requirement is really minimal. Look for some snazzy fabric at Superbuzzy or Reprodepot, both of which carry lovely Japanese imports.

Mystery Bag Tutorial

Posted by Karla Norgaard: knorgy@earthlink.net

I found this pattern in an old sewing book at the library. I thought it would work well for a mystery bag or a pouch for something in the classroom. It works well because it can stand up on the shelf.

First measure the circumference of your basket. This + 1" will be the width of your fabric. The height of your fabric will be the height of the finished bag + 2 1/2".

Sew the side seam of the pouch with a 1/2" seam allowance.

Fold one end of the tube in toward the wrong side 1/2" and press. Use heavy duty thread doubled on the needle to sew the folded end of the fabric to the top of the basket.

Turn the fabric right side out and press the top edge down into the tube 1/2" and sew. Fold over 1" and press. Sew a seam close to the folded edge.

Stitch over the side seam near the top and bottom edge of the fold, going back and forth several times. Use a seam rippper to rip the side seam between the two stitches you just made.


Use a safety pin to thread a ribbon through the top of the bag. Tie the ends of the ribbon together and cut off the excess. You may need to burn the edges of the ribbon with a lighter to prevent them from unraveling.

Caring for Plants in the Classroom

I couldn't wait until Easter break to make a rick-rack apron for Tie One On. The rick-rack itself is understated, but the overall effect of the hand-appliqué and three dimensional flowers is awesome in person. Et voila! Thus was born the most nifty "watering flowers" apron this side of the Sierra Madre.
You can make your own similar apron of any style. (This one is a bit complicated with the lining, pleats and all ... I can't even tell you how I did it ... it was pure luck.) All you will need is a bit of Pellon's Wonder Under (found at any fabric store) and this great tutorial for making the flowers, or "yo-yo's."

Iron the Wonder Under to the back side of the fabric you want to appliqué, wait for it to cool, then draw the design for the watering can/pot/leaves. Cut out design, peel off the backing, and iron directly onto the main fabric. Then comes the time consuming part - hand stitch all around each appliqué, using a coordinating thread. I also added some french knots to mimic dripping water. The rick-rack was machine stitched after the rest of the embroidery was completed.
This is (one of) the best parts about this apron - its loop to hold the watering indicators. In my classroom, we use two types of markers ... one that identifies a plant that needs watering (here it is the green with the blue embroidered drop,) and another (here the red flower) that tells the children that this plant has already been watered today. You need to have one of each for each plant in the environment. For example, if you have 10 plants, you would need 10 greens and 10 reds. The indicators that are not in use remain in a pretty vase on the practical life shelf next to the apron and watering can.
In the morning, the guide checks the humidity of the soil in each plant and (most likely) places a green, "water me" indicator in the pot. During the day, the child that chooses to water plants puts on the apron and inserts several red "I've been watered" indicators in the apron loop. The child's hands are then free to carry the watering can.
The child removes the green indicator, wipes off the soil with a small towel, (I'll explain this later) and places it in the loop before watering the plant. After the plant has been watered, she places the red indicator in the soil. She continues in this manner until she has used up her stash of red indicators, at which time she can place the green indicators from her apron loop in the pretty vase. If there are more red indicators left in the vase, she can repeat the process. If not, work for that day is complete, as all of the plants have been watered.
During the presentation, I would show the child that the small (3inx3in) towel that is placed under the watering can spout to prevent dripping is also used to wipe off any soil from the indicator before placing it in the apron loop.

Here are a few more ideas concerning plants in the environment:

1.) Why not label the classroom and garden plants and have this as a classified reading exercise? This could also be done at home in the garden and with potted plants.
2.) Have another material for dusting plant leaves. This might use the same apron as the watering exercise, with a tiny spray bottle/mister (why not use an antique perfume bottle?) and a 3cm x 3cm piece of felt. The presentation is simple - mist a leaf, gently wipe off the dust with the felt.
3.) Another plant care extension is a presentation on how to remove and compost dry, dead plant leaves. The only material required is a small basket in which to place the leaves to transport them to the compost.
4.) Check out the North American Montessori Teacher's Association's (NAMTA) video on the Child in Nature - I have not had the opportunity to see it, but it is highly recommended by my colleague, who says it is an i